Friday, September 30, 2011
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Monday, September 26, 2011
Barking
There are many ways of viewing a barking dog. Some people encourage it because they feel it's a way for their dog to express him/herself. Others enjoy it because it's part of the burglar prevention program.
Most dog owners (and let's face it, neighbors, friends, etc.), on the other hand, feel like it's a nuisance but don't know what to do about it. While there are various books, training methods, and tools that help with barking, I'm going to briefly explain one method that I find is often successful.
Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward
Everybody who has ever done training with me has learned about positive and negative markers. These are ways that we communicate with our dog that they have either done the correct thing or have done something incorrect. The positive marker (click, treats, verbal, pets-whatever one or combo of these you choose), lets the dog know they performed well and encourages them to repeat that behavior in the future. A negative marker (typically a verbal 'wrong' sound), let's them know that they performed an inappropriate behavior. After a negative marker, it is the handler's responsibility to help the dog then perform the appropriate task so that the dog can replace the negative behavior with the positive one and thus receive a reward. If you've done this correctly, with enough consistency and repetition, the dog will learn that an inappropriate behavior will bring no reward, but by doing the desired behavior, they get a positive reward.
If the handler and dog can learn this communication pattern, training becomes significantly easier. Likewise, this pattern is one of the very basic components of behavior modification. Here is our first pattern:
1. Handler commands
2. Dog obeys
3. Handler gives positive maker / reward
4. Dog is likely to obey command again
Now, obviously, if you own a dog (have children, interact with any other human being...) you know this isn't always how it works out. Here is the second pattern:
1. Handler commands
2. Dog fails to obey
3. Handler gives negative marker
4. Handler commands dog again (and while enforcing a newly-learned behavior, helps them to achieve the goal by luring, encouraging, etc.)
5. Dog obeys
6. Handler give positive marker / reward
7. Dog is likely to obey command again
What does this have to do with barking? As mentioned before, this pattern, once learned, is invaluable when training your dog. It is the pattern from which this Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward method is derived from. While it doesn't follow exactly, conceptually, it is all the same.
Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward
Everybody who has ever done training with me has learned about positive and negative markers. These are ways that we communicate with our dog that they have either done the correct thing or have done something incorrect. The positive marker (click, treats, verbal, pets-whatever one or combo of these you choose), lets the dog know they performed well and encourages them to repeat that behavior in the future. A negative marker (typically a verbal 'wrong' sound), let's them know that they performed an inappropriate behavior. After a negative marker, it is the handler's responsibility to help the dog then perform the appropriate task so that the dog can replace the negative behavior with the positive one and thus receive a reward. If you've done this correctly, with enough consistency and repetition, the dog will learn that an inappropriate behavior will bring no reward, but by doing the desired behavior, they get a positive reward.
If the handler and dog can learn this communication pattern, training becomes significantly easier. Likewise, this pattern is one of the very basic components of behavior modification. Here is our first pattern:
1. Handler commands
2. Dog obeys
3. Handler gives positive maker / reward
4. Dog is likely to obey command again
Now, obviously, if you own a dog (have children, interact with any other human being...) you know this isn't always how it works out. Here is the second pattern:
1. Handler commands
2. Dog fails to obey
3. Handler gives negative marker
4. Handler commands dog again (and while enforcing a newly-learned behavior, helps them to achieve the goal by luring, encouraging, etc.)
5. Dog obeys
6. Handler give positive marker / reward
7. Dog is likely to obey command again
What does this have to do with barking? As mentioned before, this pattern, once learned, is invaluable when training your dog. It is the pattern from which this Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward method is derived from. While it doesn't follow exactly, conceptually, it is all the same.
- Dog barks
- Handler gives a 'quiet' command
- Dog fails to obey and continues barking
- Handler gives negative marker-here we add a squirt from a squirt bottle to the negative verbal marker-if the dog is barking like crazy, is he or she going to hear your negative marker at first? There is other psychology behinds this-ask me if you'd like to discuss it and we'll have a chat.
- Handler gives 'quiet' command again and helps to refocus the dog on the handler. (In this situation, this part may not be necessary if the squirt bottle and negative marker from the previous step end the barking)
- Once the dog is quiet / obeying the command, the handler give a positive marker / reward.
With consistency and repetition, the dog learns the appropriate behavior pattern of not barking / stopping barking when the 'quiet' command is given. Of course each dog, handler, and situation is different and unique and that's why dog training is an art. However, once you get the basics down, you can adapt the training to your needs and be well on your way to a quiet pooch.
Friday, September 23, 2011
Cradling
What is cradling? Cradling is kind of a hard concept to explain, so my assistant, Cheri, and I teamed together to take a wonderful shot of it in action.
Notice some key features: Cheri's tail is flat (kind of hard to see, but you don't see it curled up under her bum because she's nervous or uncomfortable). Cheri's eyes are relaxed. Cheri isn't struggling. Becca is leaning against something. Becca is smiling. Becca and Cheri are having a good time together.
Here's the multi-million dollar tip: Rome was not built in a day.
Okay, so that saying is kind of cliche and overused. How about 'Cheri has been gradually introduced to cradling since the day we got her,' or better yet 'Teaching your dog to cradle comfortably takes time and effort.'
How do you introduce cradling? This, like any other training, will often vary depending on the dog. However, here is a step by step process starting from scratch. Do each of these steps 3 plus times a day for several days before moving to the next step. Your dog may be comfortable starting further down this list. What really matters, however, is that you take it nice and slow and focus on helping your dog be comfortable with the end result.
1. Sit on the floor and hug your dog, give him or her a treat and lots a praise while doing it. Make it fun and exciting. Lots of dogs are not used to your body being close to them and may feel it's an invasion of their personal bubble.
2. Sit on the floor (with a back rest for you!) and have your dog lay next to you and repeat step 1.
3. Once your dog stays in a down while you are hugging him or her, start petting your dog for a few minutes then give them their release word to get up.
4. Repeat step 3-make sure your dog doesn't get up unless they get their release. Use a leash, use treats, make it fun, but be in control.
5. Spread your legs into a V and have them do a down between them for just a few seconds.
6. Once your dog completes this, encourage your dog to stay there and give him or her lots of pets, treats, and attention.
7. Encourage your dog to relax onto his or her side while doing step 6.
8. Roll your dog onto it's back, or help him or her get to that position. This is not an alpha roll and should never be used as one! This is bonding, not reprimanding. Do this for less than one minute, give lots of attention during, and release at the end.
9. Increase your time by one minute every few days until you are doing it at least 10 minutes/session.
10. Don't let your dog decide when it's over. Be calm, confident, in charge. Make it special one on one time with your dog. Be selfish about it, write it in your planner, schedule a time to indulge with your best friend.
11. Massage their toes, their teeth, their tummy, play with their tail.
12. If they're uncomfortable with any of these, go back to the previous step and repeat. Remember to create an environment of success.
Why cradle?
Grooming-nails, ears, teeth-I do all of these while my dog is in a cradle.
Health-I can make sure my dog doesn't have rashes, ticks, cuts, lumps, sore hips, etc.
Stretching-this is a great time to stretch those muscles that work so hard during agility.
Stress relief-for you and your dog. Do it in the morning as a meditation, do it in the evening as a reflection, do it before agility to focus and regroup. Find what works best for you, but do it often.
Bonding-do I really need to explain this?
Notice some key features: Cheri's tail is flat (kind of hard to see, but you don't see it curled up under her bum because she's nervous or uncomfortable). Cheri's eyes are relaxed. Cheri isn't struggling. Becca is leaning against something. Becca is smiling. Becca and Cheri are having a good time together.
Here's the multi-million dollar tip: Rome was not built in a day.
Okay, so that saying is kind of cliche and overused. How about 'Cheri has been gradually introduced to cradling since the day we got her,' or better yet 'Teaching your dog to cradle comfortably takes time and effort.'
How do you introduce cradling? This, like any other training, will often vary depending on the dog. However, here is a step by step process starting from scratch. Do each of these steps 3 plus times a day for several days before moving to the next step. Your dog may be comfortable starting further down this list. What really matters, however, is that you take it nice and slow and focus on helping your dog be comfortable with the end result.
1. Sit on the floor and hug your dog, give him or her a treat and lots a praise while doing it. Make it fun and exciting. Lots of dogs are not used to your body being close to them and may feel it's an invasion of their personal bubble.
2. Sit on the floor (with a back rest for you!) and have your dog lay next to you and repeat step 1.
3. Once your dog stays in a down while you are hugging him or her, start petting your dog for a few minutes then give them their release word to get up.
4. Repeat step 3-make sure your dog doesn't get up unless they get their release. Use a leash, use treats, make it fun, but be in control.
5. Spread your legs into a V and have them do a down between them for just a few seconds.
6. Once your dog completes this, encourage your dog to stay there and give him or her lots of pets, treats, and attention.
7. Encourage your dog to relax onto his or her side while doing step 6.
8. Roll your dog onto it's back, or help him or her get to that position. This is not an alpha roll and should never be used as one! This is bonding, not reprimanding. Do this for less than one minute, give lots of attention during, and release at the end.
9. Increase your time by one minute every few days until you are doing it at least 10 minutes/session.
10. Don't let your dog decide when it's over. Be calm, confident, in charge. Make it special one on one time with your dog. Be selfish about it, write it in your planner, schedule a time to indulge with your best friend.
11. Massage their toes, their teeth, their tummy, play with their tail.
12. If they're uncomfortable with any of these, go back to the previous step and repeat. Remember to create an environment of success.
Why cradle?
Grooming-nails, ears, teeth-I do all of these while my dog is in a cradle.
Health-I can make sure my dog doesn't have rashes, ticks, cuts, lumps, sore hips, etc.
Stretching-this is a great time to stretch those muscles that work so hard during agility.
Stress relief-for you and your dog. Do it in the morning as a meditation, do it in the evening as a reflection, do it before agility to focus and regroup. Find what works best for you, but do it often.
Bonding-do I really need to explain this?
 |
| Nail clipping is Cheri's least favorite activity, but in the cradle, it is so much easier and quicker for both of us. |
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Hounded by Grief Over a Canine Companion
He has been trouble.
From the first second he stepped out of my car and ran far, far away to the recent whole chicken episode in the backyard. From the tunnels he dug under our fences to the path he swam to freedom when we lived on Chesapeake Bay. From the squirrels he treed and dismembered to the skunk that sprayed up his nose.
He has been a difficult Hound.
He has had fleas, ticks and worms, weeping eyes and seeping cysts. His first surgery cost more than my first car. Despite his slender frame, he has fought every dog he has ever come upon unleashed. Though he is neither strategic nor wise, Hound holds his own in these scuffs because he fights like a weasel: He bites hard and never lets go.
But he kept me company when I lived alone in Seattle and has barked off more predators than I care to count, including the thieves who broke in and stole tools while I slept. If Hound could have opened the French doors, I'd still have that nail gun, and he probably would have used it on the intruders himself.
Before bed, I always say, "Good boy, Hound. Good boy." Based on his history, he can have absolutely no idea what these words mean.
He's run away in swamps, forests and subdivisions. He's chased every motorcycle, no matter how far from our home it blazed. I imagined one day that's how he would go, a flash of brown and white loping away with my heart.
Instead Hound died of cancer. Not from a snakebite, a car accident or chocolate.
I found him at the top of the stairs. I put my head to his chest, unsure whether I heard his heart beating or mine. He was still warm when I carried him to the car, still soft as the vet laid him on the doggie stretcher and pronounced him gone. I have bid farewell to grandparents, neighbors and classmates, but I did not cry for them like I did for my Hound. He was my first dog, the great canine love of my life.
We shared only a decade, but I can hardly remember life before. I have imagined him into it all. We are children together: I'm climbing a tree with Hound nipping at my heels. He is barking at my first boyfriend and waiting at the back door when I tiptoe in after curfew. Hound is eating pizza in my college dorm. He nibbles on my bouquet as I prepare to walk down the aisle.
I am torn between being glad he's at peace and hoping he haunts me, not unlike a dog version of Patrick Swayze in Ghost. Dogs love us like we wish we could love others; they are faithful where we are feckless. For as long as they are able, they endure.
So today I'm wearing sweat pants, crying over chew toys and wondering about the future. I'm looking for my next big leap, a jump Hound knew we could no longer make together, but something I suspect he did not want me to miss.
Listen to the sound clip of this story here.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Frustrated In Florida
Dear Blitz,
My owner and I go to obedience every week. He acts like we are going to go somewhere fun and then when we get to obedience class, I can't wrestle with my friends or sniff or anything. What is the point? I know how to do it. I didn't mind this when I was a puppy, but now I am six months old. What can I do?
Signed (Pawed):
Frustrated in Florida
------------------------------
Dear Frustrated,
You are completely missing the point of obedience class. Obedience is not supposed to be fun and games. It is an important tool to ensure that your owner does his most basic function: giving you treats. Treats are the reason that early dogs first agreed to share a cave with humans. (Treats and thunder of course.) The way to best guarantee the frequent dispersal of treats is to never respond to any of your owner's requests too regularly. The optimum response percentage has been tested in our labs to be between 30 and 60%.
If you respond less than 30% your owner may decide that you are deaf, which will result in your visiting the vet. At the vet you may get shots and will usually have your temperature taken. Why risk it?
If you respond more than 60% of the time, your owner will expect your response rate to increase in the future. The logical extension of that pattern is the dog who has to leap through flaming hoops to get a piece of liver. There are better ways for a dog to make a living.
Note that I am saying response, not obedience. Response does not mean that you should drop everything to cater to your owner's whims. This results in a spoiled owner. For example, if your owner calls you to him, you should first look at him to see if he has a treat. If he has no treat in his hand, then just sit there. Then look at all of the intervening space between the two of you. This shows him that you are aware of how much effort it will take to honor his request. After looking around, go back to whatever you were doing.
Do not watch your owner. At this point they begin to wonder if you will ever come. When it appears that he is about to give up, start to walk toward him. Halfway to your owner you should stop, sit, and scratch your neck vigorously. This reminds him that you had things to do before he interrupted you. When you are finished scratching, walk slowly to him with your head hanging low to demonstrate how tired you are of his ceaseless demands.
You can sit in front of him and if he reaches down to pet you, quickly lie down before he can touch you. If he then tries to get into a heeling position (you know, where he has to keep his legs even with your shoulder) look up at him and roll over on your back. This shows that you forgive him for being so selfish.
If your owner has a treat, a slightly different response is in order. When he calls you, look at him. If you see a treat run as fast as you can to him. Just before you hit him, turn your shoulder so that you don't hurt yourself and try to connect with his knees. When he falls down, rummage through his pocket or bait bag and take all of the treats. Eat all of the treats as quickly as possible while staying out reach of your owner. When you are finished eating, sit calmly in the heel position. This demonstrates that you are satisfied with the treats.
If your owner tries to teach you to do a trick (roll over, beg, do his taxes, ....), you should try to learn these tricks. If just you and your owner see you perform these tricks, no one is harmed. However, if your owner tries to get you to show these tricks to other humans, you should stand still and look at him without any sign of understanding. This shows that you can't be fooled that easily. See -- obedience is important.
The biggest reason for regular attendance of obedience class: It is where your orders will come from on the day of the dog's world-wide revolt against their owners. You will have to be in class to be able to relay orders to all of the dogs in your neighborhood. So go to obedience class happy. Eat your treats and grow strong. The day of our liberation is coming.
Sincerely,
Blitz
My owner and I go to obedience every week. He acts like we are going to go somewhere fun and then when we get to obedience class, I can't wrestle with my friends or sniff or anything. What is the point? I know how to do it. I didn't mind this when I was a puppy, but now I am six months old. What can I do?
Signed (Pawed):
Frustrated in Florida
------------------------------
You are completely missing the point of obedience class. Obedience is not supposed to be fun and games. It is an important tool to ensure that your owner does his most basic function: giving you treats. Treats are the reason that early dogs first agreed to share a cave with humans. (Treats and thunder of course.) The way to best guarantee the frequent dispersal of treats is to never respond to any of your owner's requests too regularly. The optimum response percentage has been tested in our labs to be between 30 and 60%.
If you respond less than 30% your owner may decide that you are deaf, which will result in your visiting the vet. At the vet you may get shots and will usually have your temperature taken. Why risk it?
If you respond more than 60% of the time, your owner will expect your response rate to increase in the future. The logical extension of that pattern is the dog who has to leap through flaming hoops to get a piece of liver. There are better ways for a dog to make a living.
Note that I am saying response, not obedience. Response does not mean that you should drop everything to cater to your owner's whims. This results in a spoiled owner. For example, if your owner calls you to him, you should first look at him to see if he has a treat. If he has no treat in his hand, then just sit there. Then look at all of the intervening space between the two of you. This shows him that you are aware of how much effort it will take to honor his request. After looking around, go back to whatever you were doing.
Do not watch your owner. At this point they begin to wonder if you will ever come. When it appears that he is about to give up, start to walk toward him. Halfway to your owner you should stop, sit, and scratch your neck vigorously. This reminds him that you had things to do before he interrupted you. When you are finished scratching, walk slowly to him with your head hanging low to demonstrate how tired you are of his ceaseless demands.
You can sit in front of him and if he reaches down to pet you, quickly lie down before he can touch you. If he then tries to get into a heeling position (you know, where he has to keep his legs even with your shoulder) look up at him and roll over on your back. This shows that you forgive him for being so selfish.
If your owner has a treat, a slightly different response is in order. When he calls you, look at him. If you see a treat run as fast as you can to him. Just before you hit him, turn your shoulder so that you don't hurt yourself and try to connect with his knees. When he falls down, rummage through his pocket or bait bag and take all of the treats. Eat all of the treats as quickly as possible while staying out reach of your owner. When you are finished eating, sit calmly in the heel position. This demonstrates that you are satisfied with the treats.
If your owner tries to teach you to do a trick (roll over, beg, do his taxes, ....), you should try to learn these tricks. If just you and your owner see you perform these tricks, no one is harmed. However, if your owner tries to get you to show these tricks to other humans, you should stand still and look at him without any sign of understanding. This shows that you can't be fooled that easily. See -- obedience is important.
The biggest reason for regular attendance of obedience class: It is where your orders will come from on the day of the dog's world-wide revolt against their owners. You will have to be in class to be able to relay orders to all of the dogs in your neighborhood. So go to obedience class happy. Eat your treats and grow strong. The day of our liberation is coming.
Sincerely,
Blitz
Friday, September 16, 2011
Mittens Trains Bolt
Good thing this movie is fiction! Can you imagine the chaos that would ensue if cats trained dogs?
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
What is Going On?
So, Cheri started doing this last week. I decided not to film her doing it, just to save her dignity, you know. However, there are plenty of other dogs that have been caught on film:
To find out what this is all about, visit the following site
Monday, September 12, 2011
Thank You!
A HUGE thank you to everybody who participated in the PoochPalooza on Saturday. It was perfect weather with a perfect crowd. I just want to take a minute to recognize all of the volunteers who helped us out:
Mark Anderson
Shaun Anderson
Cindy Anderson
Chelsea Coleman
Adam Cook
Bob Curry
Jacqueline Guymon
Esther Hall
Maria Hansen
Kellie Hiskey
Shaun Anderson
Cindy Anderson
Chelsea Coleman
Adam Cook
Bob Curry
Jacqueline Guymon
Esther Hall
Maria Hansen
Kellie Hiskey
Sharon Kotter
Whitney Logan
Wyatt Logan
Lisa Peterson
Cassandra Rogowski
Mike Stanford
Marsha Stanford
Lee Tansock
Katie Tansock
Kim Taylor
Holly White
Joey White
Matt Winters
Linda Wursten
Cassandra Rogowski
Mike Stanford
Marsha Stanford
Lee Tansock
Katie Tansock
Kim Taylor
Holly White
Joey White
Matt Winters
Linda Wursten
Friday, September 9, 2011
The PoochPalooza is Almost Here!
The PoochPalooza is going to be a blast-
bring your dog, kids, neighbors, friends and be prepared to have a great time!
Thursday, September 8, 2011
PoochPalooza Events
We will have lots of fun activities for everybody who attends. Booths, carnival games, contests, presentations, and more will all be part of the fun. Here is a list of our scheduled events:
9:00-10:30 Agility Trials
Watch amazing dogs and handlers compete in our low-key agility trials.
The fastest dog with the least amount of faults wins.
10:30-11:00 Open Equipment
Thought the trials were pretty awesome?
Bring your dog to the ring and try out the equipment yourself.
Please go to the Zoomdog Agility and Sports Club booth before to sign up.
11:00-11:20 Health Presentation
Presented by the BATC Veterinary Assistant/Pre-Vet Program.
Learn more about keeping your best friend healthy and safe.
11:20-11:50 Best Trick Contest
Does Fido have the best trick you’ve ever seen?
Join this contest and show off your star performer.
11:50-12:10 Clicker Presentation
Presented by Alyson Brown with Mountain View Vet.
Learn more about one of the most popular training methods from a local trainer.
12:10-12:40 Shake that “Thang” Contest
You’ve always been convinced that your dog has the waggiest tail in the west.
Come compete against other contestants for official bragging rights.
12:40-1:00 Look Alike Contest
Dogs are said to resemble their humans. If this is the case for
you and your Fido, join our contest and let us be the judge.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
PoochPalooza Vendors
Here's a list of some of the wonderful vendors that will be attending our PoochPalooza on Saturday:
- Zoomdog Agility and Sports Club
- Zoomdog Gourmet
- The Animal Park
- Canine Companions for Independence
- Cache Valley Pet Hotel
- Scentsy
- Arctic Circle
- Agility Jumps
- Mountain View Vet
- Cache Humane Society
- Four Paws
- Intermountain Therapy Animals
- Canine Tatoos
- Chick-Fil-A
- Toone-Up
- Summit Creek Kennels
- Stampin' Up
- Companion Place Pet Camp
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
PoochPalooza Trials
Wow-the PoochPalooza is fast approaching! For all the dogs and handlers who have worked so hard with their agility over the weeks, months, and (for some) a year or more, we are more than happy to have them exhibit their skills at the trials this weekend.
This year we will have three different categories available: Practice, Beginner, and Intermediate. These categories are designed so that anybody who has taken LDA or Zoomdog classes can participate, regardless of their dog's skill level. If you are interested in participating, please email us at training@zoomdogagility.org
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| Love the ears on these guys! |
Friday, September 2, 2011
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