Canine Stress

Canine stress can be manifested in many ways: stretching, itching, yawning, licking lips, turning away, diarrhea, etc.  Many different things can cause your dog stress, including, but not limited to:

• children
• thunderstorms
• loud noises
• corrections
• overly assertive behavior

But wait! You say, my dog LOVES children or is completely fine during thunderstorms.  Obviously, this is a extremely general list and because your dog is unique, they also have unique triggers inducing stress.  So, the best thing to do is to look for the signs of stress if your dog.

How about we review the video from last week's post about the weave poles and see if you can't pick out a) what Cheri's stress reaction is, and b) what is triggering her stress reaction.

Think you have the answer?  Then read on and see if you've got it.

Cheri gets stressed after she 'fails' the weaves twice in a row and gets a verbal negative marker for it.  So, what does she do?   She itches.  Could she really have had a legitimate itch?  Sure, but it's unlikely, especially since I know that before this little video, we had worked pretty hard on the course after an already long time at work, school, and agility classes.  After this video, we wrapped up and went home.

So, is stress bad?  That really depends on how much stress your dog is experiencing.  Everybody and every dog gets stressed and this is often what motivates us to change.  A little stress during training is not bad, and if dealt with correctly, helps a dog to grow.  Take the above video for example, or think of the first time your dog learned the dog walk or teeter.  Most dogs are not comfortable the fist time.  But, with making sure they positively complete the task, you can work through this stress and make it beneficial for both you and your dog. 

However, excessive long-term stress is emotionally and psychologically bad.  Think of the Fourth of July and all its fireworks-if you live in a place where the celebrations are loud and long, this could negatively impact your dog.  This blog, focused mainly on items for agility, is not intended to help your dog with long-term or excessive stress.  If your dog experiences extreme stress over a long period of time, or is constantly stressed, it's probably best you consult a behavioralist. 

The take home message is this:  Look for signs of stress in your dog.  If you find they are experiencing stress, ask yourself, "Is this something he/she needs to get over? Or is this a one-time event?"  If it's something small they just need to get over, work on creating that environment of success to help your dog work through his/her issues.  If it's a one time event (you're at the dog park and there's a crazy dog running around terrorizing your Chihuahua), then just leave and take your dog out of the situation.  

For a great article about canine stress, read the article Identifying and Coping with Canine Stress

Halloween Party Flyer

Costumes Galore

Just a few images to get you excited about our upcoming Halloween party and costume contest!

Reworking the Weaves

Dog training is an art.  Dogs are variable, unique, and make their own decisions.  They are not a math problem that can simply be solved by doing all the exact same steps every time.  Often handlers get frustrated with their dogs because they don't behave or perform to their expectations.  An example of this is when a dog is learning the weave poles.  The weaves are very hard to master, but it can be done.  Along the way, however, there may be many items to work through.  Often people will get very excited, saying, "Did you see that? Fido totally just did the weave poles all on his own!"  The handler will then send Fido through the weave poles again and again, expecting him to do it perfectly every time from here on out.  When Fido skips a weave, or otherwise makes a mistake, the handler will become frustrated with the dog, wondering why he did it right before and is making mistakes now.  There are so many factors that affect a dog's performance at any given time.  That's why you work on minimizing these factors and proofing your dog  How you handle the mistakes, however, is really the focus of this post.

Getting mad at your dog over and over after he makes a mistake will only teach him that working with you is a negative experience.  Nobody likes to fail repeatedly and neither does your dog.  Instead, if your pup is having a hard time, you want to help them out and create that environment of success. 

The video below is an example of this concept.  This was filmed several months ago when Cheri was becoming pretty competent on the weaves but was still in the earlier stages of the learning process.  She had been doing the weaves more or less independently but would still have occasional issues.  Watch the video, then I'll discuss a little more below. 

(P.S. the sound in the video is terrible-even I can't understand what I was saying at the beginning...something about treats...it's not really relevant, so don't worry about that portion.)

So, as a quick recap, Cheri was doing the weaves and missed on of the last gaps.  I gave her a negative marker, started her over, and she missed it again.  At this point, I realized that the first miss was not just a fluke (that does happen sometimes) since she missed the exact same spot the second time through.  So, the third time I take her through, we slow down a hair, and I give her a deliberate hand signal when she gets to the problem spot, reminding her that she needs to come around that pole.  If you missed this, I would recommend watching it again.

Also, a few other points to notice:

• My negative marker was relatively unemotional (I could actually use some work here though).
• Once she did successfully complete the weaves, she got extra praise.
• I took her through one more time and she again successfully completed the weaves-this reinforces the positive pattern.
• If you watch closely, you can probably figure out one of the reasons why she missed the spots both times.
• It is interesting to also observe what Cheri does after the second time she misses the weaves and after the second negative marker I give her.  This behavior will be discussed in a post next week.

USDAA

While Zoomdog is not currently affiliated with a specific agility organization, we do focus mainly on rules, equipment, etc. of The United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA).  Check out their About Us  portion of their website to learn a little more about their origins and accomplishments.  USDAA has also made many changes this year, to check out a few of them, visit DogSports article: USDAA New Nips.

Cache Humane's Sweat for a Pet

This Saturday, October 8th, Cache Humane will be holding their annual Sweat for a Pet.  Check out their flyer below and make sure you come and try out our agility equipment that day!

The Agility Class

Crosses

How many front and rear crosses can you spot in this video?

Barking

There are many ways of viewing a barking dog.   Some people encourage it because they feel it's a way for their dog to express him/herself.  Others enjoy it because it's part of the burglar prevention program.

Most dog owners (and let's face it, neighbors, friends, etc.), on the other hand, feel like it's a nuisance but don't know what to do about it.  While there are various books, training methods, and tools that help with barking, I'm going to briefly explain one method that I find is often successful.

Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward

Everybody who has ever done training with me has learned about positive and negative markers.  These are ways that we communicate with our dog that they have either done the correct thing or have done something incorrect.  The positive marker (click, treats, verbal, pets-whatever one or combo of these you choose), lets the dog know they performed well and encourages them to repeat that behavior in the future.  A negative marker (typically a verbal 'wrong' sound), let's them know that they performed an inappropriate behavior.  After a negative marker, it is the handler's responsibility to help the dog then perform the appropriate task so that the dog can replace the negative behavior with the positive one and thus receive a reward.  If you've done this correctly, with enough consistency and repetition, the dog will learn that an inappropriate behavior will bring no reward, but by doing the desired behavior, they get a positive reward.

If the handler and dog can learn this communication pattern, training becomes significantly easier.  Likewise, this pattern is one of the very basic components of behavior modification.  Here is our first pattern:

1. Handler commands
2. Dog obeys
3. Handler gives positive maker / reward
4. Dog is likely to obey command again

Now, obviously, if you own a dog (have children, interact with any other human being...) you know this isn't always how it works out.  Here is the second pattern:

1. Handler commands
2. Dog fails to obey
3. Handler gives negative marker
4. Handler commands dog again (and while enforcing a newly-learned behavior, helps them to achieve the goal by luring, encouraging, etc.)
5. Dog obeys
6. Handler give positive marker / reward
7. Dog is likely to obey command again

What does this have to do with barking?  As mentioned before, this pattern, once learned, is invaluable when training your dog.  It is the pattern from which this Bark and Spray; Quiet and Reward method is derived from.  While it doesn't follow exactly, conceptually, it is all the same.

• Dog barks
• Handler gives a 'quiet' command
• Dog fails to obey and continues barking
• Handler gives negative marker-here we add a squirt from a squirt bottle to the negative verbal marker-if the dog is barking like crazy, is he or she going to hear your negative marker at first? There is other psychology behinds this-ask me if you'd like to discuss it and we'll have a chat.
• Handler gives 'quiet' command again and helps to refocus the dog on the handler.  (In this situation, this part may not be necessary if the squirt bottle and negative marker from the previous step end the barking)
• Once the dog is quiet / obeying the command, the handler give a positive marker / reward.

With consistency and repetition, the dog learns the appropriate behavior pattern of not barking / stopping barking when the 'quiet' command is given.  Of course each dog, handler, and situation is different and unique and that's why dog training is an art.  However, once you get the basics down, you can adapt the training to your needs and be well on your way to a quiet pooch.

Cradling

What is cradling?  Cradling is kind of a hard concept to explain, so my assistant, Cheri, and I teamed together to take a wonderful shot of it in action.

Notice some key features: Cheri's tail is flat (kind of hard to see, but you don't see it curled up under her bum because she's nervous or uncomfortable).  Cheri's eyes are relaxed.  Cheri isn't struggling.  Becca is leaning against something.  Becca is smiling.  Becca and Cheri are having a good time together.

Here's the multi-million dollar tip:  Rome was not built in a day.

Okay, so that saying is kind of cliche and overused.  How about 'Cheri has been gradually introduced to cradling since the day we got her,' or better yet 'Teaching your dog to cradle comfortably takes time and effort.'

How do you introduce cradling?  This, like any other training, will often vary depending on the dog.  However, here is a step by step process starting from scratch.  Do each of these steps 3 plus times a day for several days before moving to the next step.  Your dog may be comfortable starting further down this list.  What really matters, however, is that you take it nice and slow and focus on helping your dog be comfortable with the end result.

1.  Sit on the floor and hug your dog, give him or her a treat and lots a praise while doing it.  Make it fun and exciting.  Lots of dogs are not used to your body being close to them and may feel it's an invasion of their personal bubble.
2.  Sit on the floor (with a back rest for you!) and have your dog lay next to you and repeat step 1.
3.  Once your dog stays in a down while you are hugging him or her, start petting your dog for a few minutes then give them their release word to get up.
4.  Repeat step 3-make sure your dog doesn't get up unless they get their release.  Use a leash, use treats, make it fun, but be in control.
5.  Spread your legs into a V and have them do a down between them for just a few seconds.
6.  Once your dog completes this, encourage your dog to stay there and give him or her lots of pets, treats, and attention.
7.  Encourage your dog to relax onto his or her side while doing step 6.
8.  Roll your dog onto it's back, or help him or her get to that position.  This is not an alpha roll and should never be used as one!  This is bonding, not reprimanding.  Do this for less than one minute, give lots of attention during, and release at the end.
9.  Increase your time by one minute every few days until you are doing it at least 10 minutes/session.
10.  Don't let your dog decide when it's over.  Be calm, confident, in charge.  Make it special one on one time with your dog.  Be selfish about it, write it in your planner, schedule a time to indulge with your best friend.
11.  Massage their toes, their teeth, their tummy, play with their tail.
12.  If they're uncomfortable with any of these, go back to the previous step and repeat.  Remember to create an environment of success.

Why cradle? 
Grooming-nails, ears, teeth-I do all of these while my dog is in a cradle.
Health-I can make sure my dog doesn't have rashes, ticks, cuts, lumps, sore hips, etc.
Stretching-this is a great time to stretch those muscles that work so hard during agility.
Stress relief-for you and your dog.  Do it in the morning as a meditation, do it in the evening as a reflection, do it before agility to focus and regroup.  Find what works best for you, but do it often.
Bonding-do I really need to explain this?

Nail clipping is Cheri's least favorite activity, but  in the  cradle, it is so much easier and quicker for both of us.

Hounded by Grief Over a Canine Companion

September 20, 2011 Annmarie Kelly-Harbaugh is a writer, mom and dog-lover currently living in Chagrin Falls, Ohio.

He has been trouble.

From the first second he stepped out of my car and ran far, far away to the recent whole chicken episode in the backyard. From the tunnels he dug under our fences to the path he swam to freedom when we lived on Chesapeake Bay. From the squirrels he treed and dismembered to the skunk that sprayed up his nose.

He has been a difficult Hound.

He has had fleas, ticks and worms, weeping eyes and seeping cysts. His first surgery cost more than my first car. Despite his slender frame, he has fought every dog he has ever come upon unleashed. Though he is neither strategic nor wise, Hound holds his own in these scuffs because he fights like a weasel: He bites hard and never lets go.

But he kept me company when I lived alone in Seattle and has barked off more predators than I care to count, including the thieves who broke in and stole tools while I slept. If Hound could have opened the French doors, I'd still have that nail gun, and he probably would have used it on the intruders himself.
Before bed, I always say, "Good boy, Hound. Good boy." Based on his history, he can have absolutely no idea what these words mean.

He's run away in swamps, forests and subdivisions. He's chased every motorcycle, no matter how far from our home it blazed. I imagined one day that's how he would go, a flash of brown and white loping away with my heart.

Instead Hound died of cancer. Not from a snakebite, a car accident or chocolate.

I found him at the top of the stairs. I put my head to his chest, unsure whether I heard his heart beating or mine. He was still warm when I carried him to the car, still soft as the vet laid him on the doggie stretcher and pronounced him gone. I have bid farewell to grandparents, neighbors and classmates, but I did not cry for them like I did for my Hound. He was my first dog, the great canine love of my life.

We shared only a decade, but I can hardly remember life before. I have imagined him into it all. We are children together: I'm climbing a tree with Hound nipping at my heels. He is barking at my first boyfriend and waiting at the back door when I tiptoe in after curfew. Hound is eating pizza in my college dorm. He nibbles on my bouquet as I prepare to walk down the aisle.

I am torn between being glad he's at peace and hoping he haunts me, not unlike a dog version of Patrick Swayze in Ghost. Dogs love us like we wish we could love others; they are faithful where we are feckless. For as long as they are able, they endure.

So today I'm wearing sweat pants, crying over chew toys and wondering about the future. I'm looking for my next big leap, a jump Hound knew we could no longer make together, but something I suspect he did not want me to miss.

 Listen to the sound clip of this story here.

Frustrated In Florida

Dear Blitz,

My owner and I go to obedience every week. He acts like we are going to go somewhere fun and then when we get to obedience class, I can't wrestle with my friends or sniff or anything. What is the point? I know how to do it. I didn't mind this when I was a puppy, but now I am six months old. What can I do?

Signed (Pawed):
Frustrated in Florida
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear Frustrated,

You are completely missing the point of obedience class. Obedience is not supposed to be fun and games. It is an important tool to ensure that your owner does his most basic function: giving you treats. Treats are the reason that early dogs first agreed to share a cave with humans. (Treats and thunder of course.) The way to best guarantee the frequent dispersal of treats is to never respond to any of your owner's requests too regularly. The optimum response percentage has been tested in our labs to be between 30 and 60%.

If you respond less than 30% your owner may decide that you are deaf, which will result in your visiting the vet. At the vet you may get shots and will usually have your temperature taken. Why risk it?

If you respond more than 60% of the time, your owner will expect your response rate to increase in the future. The logical extension of that pattern is the dog who has to leap through flaming hoops to get a piece of liver. There are better ways for a dog to make a living.

Note that I am saying response, not obedience. Response does not mean that you should drop everything to cater to your owner's whims. This results in a spoiled owner. For example, if your owner calls you to him, you should first look at him to see if he has a treat. If he has no treat in his hand, then just sit there. Then look at all of the intervening space between the two of you. This shows him that you are aware of how much effort it will take to honor his request. After looking around, go back to whatever you were doing.

Do not watch your owner. At this point they begin to wonder if you will ever come. When it appears that he is about to give up, start to walk toward him. Halfway to your owner you should stop, sit, and scratch your neck vigorously. This reminds him that you had things to do before he interrupted you. When you are finished scratching, walk slowly to him with your head hanging low to demonstrate how tired you are of his ceaseless demands.

You can sit in front of him and if he reaches down to pet you, quickly lie down before he can touch you. If he then tries to get into a heeling position (you know, where he has to keep his legs even with your shoulder) look up at him and roll over on your back. This shows that you forgive him for being so selfish.

If your owner has a treat, a slightly different response is in order. When he calls you, look at him. If you see a treat run as fast as you can to him. Just before you hit him, turn your shoulder so that you don't hurt yourself and try to connect with his knees. When he falls down, rummage through his pocket or bait bag and take all of the treats. Eat all of the treats as quickly as possible while staying out reach of your owner. When you are finished eating, sit calmly in the heel position. This demonstrates that you are satisfied with the treats.

If your owner tries to teach you to do a trick (roll over, beg, do his taxes, ....), you should try to learn these tricks. If just you and your owner see you perform these tricks, no one is harmed. However, if your owner tries to get you to show these tricks to other humans, you should stand still and look at him without any sign of understanding. This shows that you can't be fooled that easily. See -- obedience is important.

The biggest reason for regular attendance of obedience class: It is where your orders will come from on the day of the dog's world-wide revolt against their owners. You will have to be in class to be able to relay orders to all of the dogs in your neighborhood. So go to obedience class happy. Eat your treats and grow strong. The day of our liberation is coming.

Sincerely,
Blitz

Mittens Trains Bolt

Good thing this movie is fiction!  Can you imagine the chaos that would ensue if cats trained dogs?

What is Going On?

So, Cheri started doing this last week.  I decided not to film her doing it, just to save her dignity, you know.  However, there are plenty of other dogs that have been caught on film:

To find out what this is all about, visit the following site 

Thank You!

A HUGE thank you to everybody who participated in the PoochPalooza on Saturday.  It was perfect weather with a perfect crowd.  I just want to take a minute to recognize all of the volunteers who helped us out:

 Mark Anderson
Shaun Anderson
Cindy Anderson
Chelsea Coleman
Adam Cook
Bob Curry
Jacqueline Guymon
Esther Hall
Maria Hansen
Kellie Hiskey

Sharon Kotter

Whitney Logan

Wyatt Logan

Lisa Peterson
Cassandra Rogowski
Mike Stanford
Marsha Stanford
Lee Tansock
Katie Tansock
Kim Taylor
Holly White
Joey White
Matt Winters
Linda Wursten

The PoochPalooza is Almost Here!

The PoochPalooza is going to be a blast-

bring your dog, kids, neighbors, friends and be prepared to have a great time!

 

PoochPalooza Events

We will have lots of fun activities for everybody who attends.  Booths, carnival games, contests, presentations, and more will all be part of the fun.   Here is a list of our scheduled events:

9:00-10:30 Agility Trials

  Watch amazing dogs and handlers compete in our low-key agility trials. 

The fastest dog with the least amount of faults wins.

10:30-11:00 Open Equipment

   Thought the trials were pretty awesome? 

Bring your dog to the ring and try out the equipment yourself. 

Please go to the Zoomdog Agility and Sports Club booth before to sign up.

11:00-11:20 Health Presentation

Presented by the BATC Veterinary Assistant/Pre-Vet Program.

Learn more about keeping your best friend healthy and safe.

11:20-11:50  Best Trick Contest

Does Fido have the best trick you’ve ever seen? 

Join this contest  and show off your star performer.

11:50-12:10 Clicker Presentation

Presented by Alyson Brown with Mountain View Vet.

Learn more about one of the most popular training methods from a local trainer.

12:10-12:40  Shake that “Thang” Contest

You’ve always been convinced that your dog has the waggiest tail in the west.

Come compete against other contestants for official bragging rights.

12:40-1:00  Look Alike Contest

Dogs are said to resemble their humans.  If this is the case for

you and your Fido, join our contest and let us be the judge.

PoochPalooza Vendors

Here's a list of some of the wonderful vendors that will be attending our PoochPalooza on Saturday:

•  Zoomdog Agility and Sports Club
• Zoomdog Gourmet
• The Animal Park
• Canine Companions for Independence
• Cache Valley Pet Hotel
• Scentsy
• Arctic Circle
• Agility Jumps
• Mountain View Vet
• Cache Humane Society
• Four Paws
• Intermountain Therapy Animals
• Canine Tatoos
• Chick-Fil-A
• Toone-Up
• Summit Creek Kennels
• Stampin' Up
• Companion Place Pet Camp

And a handful of booths devoted to fun games for children and adults alike!

PoochPalooza Trials

Wow-the PoochPalooza is fast approaching!  For all the dogs and handlers who have worked so hard with their agility over the weeks, months, and (for some) a year or more, we are more than happy to have them exhibit their skills at the trials this weekend.

Love the ears on these guys!

This year we will have three different categories available: Practice, Beginner, and Intermediate.  These categories are designed so that anybody who has taken LDA or Zoomdog classes can participate, regardless of their dog's skill level.  If you are interested in participating, please email us at training@zoomdogagility.org

Persistant Gus

Intermountain Therapy Animals

Intermountain Therapy Animals (ITA) is a great way to help the community while involving your dog and also keeping up his or her training.  Check out their flyer below and come see their booth on September 10th at the PoochPalooza.

The Scoop about Dog Parks

First, let me give a disclaimer:  I 100% support Cache Humane Society and all they do for homeless animals, abused pets, the local animal community in general, etc.  I think that they are doing so much work to get a dog park in the valley is very admirable.  It will be such a boost for the dog population in the area and will increase general canine awareness positively.

Now, that being said, as a trainer, I think that you have to go into a dog park situation with a few reservations.  Here are some reasons that I do not fully embrace dog parks:

1. Dog owners are not responsible.  They go to the park, let the dog off leash and smoke, chat with other owners, text on their phones-basically doing anything other than paying attention to their dogs.  Meanwhile, Stan the Stud is running around, terrorizing the other dogs, enforcing his digging habit, and (heaven forbid), doing that thing that intact males often do with anything and everything.
2. Dog owners are not responsible.  Their dog poops, they leave it.  This is not only gross, but it's unsanitary and makes the park a haven for doggy diseases, disgusting flies, and putrid smells.
3. Dog owners are not responsible.  They don't properly socialize their aggressive dogs.  Fido the Fierce is dog aggressive and bites and runs down all dogs under 20 pounds.  Fido the Fierce's mom thinks the dog park is a great way for Fido to get exercise and thinks he's just being "friendly" with the poor Cavalier.  Or, in a similar vein, the owner knows that Fido is a bit nutty with other dogs, but thinks that by exposing him to all the dogs at the park, it's going to help.  
4. Dog owners are not responsible.  They don't properly socialize their shy dogs.  Helena the Hesitant is young, adopted, and was possibly abused before going to her new family.  Helena the Hesitant's dad thinks that she should just "man up" and deal with her fear.  So, he takes her to the dog park, throws her in the waves of doggy fur and watches as she drowns among slobbery balls and flying fur.  
5. Dog owners are not responsible.  They do not realize that five months worth of training can all go down the tube at one dog park outing.  How many times have you been at a dog park and heard Oggie the Oblivous's mom yelling at him to "Drop that!"  "No! No! No!" "Here Oggie, here boy!" and Oggie just happily ignores the broken record playing in the background.  All of a sudden, all those commands are deemed worthless and as your dog is 30 feet away from you and running in a pack of other freed canines, you have about .001% chance of enforcing anything you say.  Later that night, Oggie's mom wonders why he won't come in from the back yard when he's always done so before.
6. Dog owners are not responsible.  Fun instead of safety comes first.  Those packs of dogs at parks have the mob mentality-they think as a group and act together.  Sure, they may be having fun, but they are much more likely to do stupid things.  Fred the Follower could  be running, not paying attention, and slam into a tree, a fence, a sprinkler head...you name it, anything.  I've seen this happen and the results are not happy.  Another thing that happens is that owners allow their dogs to over-exert themselves which can lead to exercise-induced collapse, heat stroke, exhaustion, etc.

Notice an overlying trend to my list?  That's right, dog owners can often be irresponsible about their dogs.  Dogs will be dogs, especially when they get together.  You have no way of telling your dog, "Hey, Oggie, if you don't listen to me while you're at the park, you're not going to be able to go back for a really long time," or "Helena, honey, if you feel nervous, just tell those mean dogs to go away."  Anyhow, you get my point: humans are the responsible party for their dogs.    

So, here are some quick ways to counteract the negatives at the dog park:

1. Pay attention.  Yes, socialize with the other dog owners, but first and foremost, watch your dog-are they getting into trouble, causing trouble, too scared, tired, exhausted, or anything else they should be? Don't turn your back to your dog.  Watch them close and be their advocate, helping them out of situations that they aren't able to handle.
2. Do your own thing.  Socially, there are certain norms for communicating with others.  Bag it-tell the person that you're talking to that you are trying to keep an eye on your dog.   Don't make eye contact as often as you normally would with the person you're talking to-keep your eyes on the dog.  Be rude-interrupt the conversation if your dog needs you to act as a referee.  Apologize to your conversation partner later.  Excuse yourself when your dog poops-saying something as simple as, "I'll be right back, so hold that thought, I just need to clean up after my dog really quick before I forget."
3. Socialize anywhere but the dog park.  The dog park is not for dogs who are uncomfortable in new, strange, exciting situations.  Take obedience classes, do agility, have small play groups with friendly neighbor dogs, hire a private trainer, go to the pet store and work on appropriate behaviors, but do not expect to do beginning socialization at the dog park.  The park is a great way to keep your dog's socialization up-not to begin the process.
4. Go during off hours.  This a great time to use the park-maybe only a dog or two, maybe none, but there is the open range you may not have in your apartment.  This is also a good time to practice their recall-on a long line!-and the other habits that reinforce a reliable recall.
5. Don't go.  If it's dirty, unsanitary, not safe, just don't go.  Let the owners know why you don't want to go (in a polite way), and offer a solution.  (Hey, I don't like going to the dog park because there is a lot of diseases floating around.  Maybe we could put up signs encouraging people to pick up after their pets.)
6. Leave early.  Is Fido the Fierce being a bully?  Leave.  Is your dog acting scared?  Leave.  Are there too many dogs?  Leave.  Sometimes, it's better to have a healthy and safe dog than to give them a "good time."

Dog parks can be great, but they also have their own issues.  Please be a wise dog owner and think about your dog's needs first.

A Dog's Crate is His Castle

Most people think of crate training as a way to housebreak your brand-new puppy.  While this is definitely true, crate training can be so much more than this.

Waffe-one of Edna's puppies and also a CCI dog in training.

There are several other benefits to having a crate-trained dog.  Here are just a few of them:

• Travel:  The only way you can travel with your dog via plane is with a crate.  Plus, if you are driving a long distance, the crate will fit nicely in your car (as long as you don't have a extra-large breed).  If you are one of those people who has a truck and lets their dogs run around from side to side, well, let's just say I would highly recommend using a crate in the back instead for the next reason on the list.
• Safety:  Dogs in the backs of trucks can jump out, get heatstroke, can be thrown during a wreck, etc.  Additionally, a crate is a safe place for your dog to go during a thunderstorm, if there were an earthquake, etc.  If you buy a good one, they are sturdy and safe.
• Comfort:  A dog who is properly crate trained will find immense comfort in having their own little bedroom.  It is their safe space where they can go and relax.  Cheri's crate even comes equipped with a fan so on hot summer nights she can flip on her back and snooze away.
• Convenience:  Traveling some more?  The nice thing about the crate is that it can be your dog's home away from home.  If you are visiting family or in a hotel room, the crate is the perfect way to keep your dog from wandering in a strange and potentially hazardous environment.  What about the times when your mother-in-law who hates dogs comes over?  How about your neighbor's pesky kids who always pull the dog's tail, poke her eyes, etc.?  What if the repair guy is coming by and you're worried about Fido escaping out the doors or gates when nobody is looking?  These are all great times you can use the crate.
• Training:  Crates and training go hand in hand.  There are so many issues that can be worked on and resolved with proper crate use.  Potty issues, barking at the door, jumping on people, counter surfing when nobody is there, chewing cords, etc.; these are just a few of the negative behaviors that a crate could possibly help with (hey, you still have to put in some work too!) The crate, however, is NOT a punishment tool and your dog should never be thrown in there because he or she misbehaved.  
• Agility:  Go to any agility competition.  When the dogs are not active, where are they?  You got it-in their crates!

As you can see, there are a lot of good reasons to crate train your dog.  It is important though to realize that this blog post is about reasons why crate training is beneficial, and not necessarily about HOW to train your dog to be comfortable in a crate.  Let me just give you one hint:  shoving your dog into the crate and saying "Be a good boy," is not going to work!  If you want training tips on the crate, contact us at training@zoomdogagility.org.

The Reason Why - By Shaun Anderson

Canine Companions for Independence (CCI) is a non-profit organization that provides service dogs free of charge to people with disabilities other than blindness. These dogs are all professionally trained by experienced and talented trainers at CCI facilities for about six months, but their training begins much earlier than that. Volunteers can apply to raise the puppies that CCI breeds. These people are called Volunteer Puppy Raisers. This is what Becca and I do for CCI. Cheri is our puppy in training and we are raising and training her for CCI. Puppy Raisers receive the puppies when they are eight weeks old and are responsible to train them in basic obedience, house manners, socialization and a few advanced commands. The Puppy Raisers keep the puppies for about 15-18 months, then they are returned to CCI to go through Professional Training. People often ask us how we are able to give the puppy up after a year and a half and say they could never do that. They would become too attached. I thought that this would be the case too, but then Becca and I got to go to the graduation of one of her previous dogs, Zeeland. Zeeland was being placed with a little boy in Southern California with autism. We were able to go to California and meet the family that was receiving Zeeland. It was an amazing experience. It was evident that the family needed Zeeland much more than we did. We were able to see some of the things that Zeeland did to help the little boy, and it was incredible to hear the difference he was already making with the little boy. This made me realize that being a Puppy Raiser is not about getting a dog for a year and a half and being able to take it everywhere with you, but it’s about helping someone else. It’s about giving up your time, money, and efforts to do something that will be of far greater benefit to someone other than yourself. This doesn’t make it any easier to turn in the dogs. It’s a really difficult experience, but once you know the reason behind giving up the dog, it makes it all worth it.

A Returning Soldier

Aren't dogs just the best-what better welcome could you have?

Canine Poisons

Have you ever wondered if the table scraps you feed your dog are safe or not?  Here is a great site from National Geographic that points out some common human food that could possibly be fatal for your pooch:  Dog Poisons

Ultimate Dog Tease

Less Is More

So, you've now got this wonderful Pet Botanics dog treat and your dog loves it!  Let's talk about how much you should feed.

For commands already learned (sit, down, shake; things they've known since their first month or two with you and they do accurately the first time you ask 85-100% of the time) they should be getting minimal treats.   I actually suggest using a lower value treat than dog log for these commands, such as Charlie Bears or kibble. If you do use dog log, use no bigger than a PEA SIZED amount.  This is NOT just a figure of speech.  If the piece you handed your dog is bigger than one of those green, round, starchy vegetables, it is most likely too big.  An extra side note: do a random reward schedule, meaning, they only get a treat every once in awhile to reinforce these commands.  This will help you to begin weaning the dog off treats.

For commands they are learning (new agility obstacles, crawl, etc.) or ones that are difficult to master (heeling, stay...), you should be using a small sized treat, about the size of a marble.

For a command they've been having a hard time with, but they finally do it successfully (they have been skipping the last section of the weaves, but after some directed practice, they finally complete it all the way through); when they've been learning a new command and it finally clicks; when they've been a brat and finally do what you ask; or when they do a recall in a distracting environment...for all of these and other great behaviors, you can give your dog a jackpot reward.  My favorite way to give a jackpot is to give 3-5 larger pieces of dog log (dice-sized), all in a row with a ton of verbal/physical praise.

If you overuse this (or any other) treat, IT WILL LOSE ITS VALUE.  Overusing can consist of:

• not making your dog work for the treat/giving him or her freebies
• giving too big of treats (your dog will get full)
• always using your highest value treat for all commands
• giving the same amount for all commands ("Let's see, she gives me a treat the size of her hand for sitting, and a treat the size of her hand for going through the weaves.  Sitting is so much less work, so maybe I'll only do that and that way I'll still get treats..."-Okay, so dogs may not cognitively go through this exact process, but you get the idea.)

A few (hopefully obvious) disclaimers that should still be mentioned:  First, if you have a Great-Dane-sized dog, you may need to up the size portions on these (still think small though).  Second, treats are not the only forms of rewards!  Your dog should always receive a auditory positive marker (clicker, "Yes!", etc.) and possibly other praise as well.  And third, when you add new environmental factors that are considered high distraction for your dog, you should make adjustments on treat sizes as necessary.  For example, Cheri obviously knows how to sit, she sits for us the first time we ask at home, and most of the time when we are in public, and so she only gets verbal praise for doing it.  However, if there is another dog around, this is the most distracting environment possible for her, and so we make sure to reward her with a pea-sized or marble-sized amount when she does well.

What Some People Do for their Dogs...

 This daily phone call sure ends up getting her into a lot of trouble!  

So, this isn't the best quality, but it's still a great clip.  If you've never seen this movie, I would recommend it for a good old-school laugh. You can even check it out of the Logan Library for free!

Pet Botanics

Pet Botanics.  Dog Log.  Meat Treat.  The Good Stuff.  Call it whatever you will, but trainers and owners love the rolled meat created by Pet Botanics.  Here are some of the numerous reasons why I use this as my main high value treat reward:

• It has a strong, appealing smell, making it easier to keep a dog's attention.
• It's soft so the dogs eat it quickly instead of crunching forever.
• You can cut it or break it into whatever size you need-tidbits for smaller rewards and chunks for jackpots.
• It's actually nutritionally balanced enough to feed it to your dog for dinner.  I would only recommend this for certain situations because, among other things, what could you possibly use during training sessions that would one up a dog log dinner?
• Real meat is the main ingredient. For consistency's sake, I prefer the Lamb and Brown Rice variety
• No added colors and only natural preservatives.  So, you should keep only a week's worth in an airtight container, stored in the fridge and freeze everything else.  I recommend slicing the roll into 1 inch thick discs, then quartering those, and freezing it in ziplock baggies.
• I can buy it for a good price at my local pet store.
• It's delicious! (or so the dogs tell me, I just haven't been able to bring myself to try it.  Lots of people say it smells like beef jerky.)

As with any good treat, if you use it too often, give it away for free (dogs don't have to earn it), or give too much for each reward-it will quickly lose its value.  More to come on this aspect later next week.

PoochPalooza

We are more than excited to announce the PoochPalooza on September 10th!  This will be a great event to meet and mingle with other Cache Valley dog owners, view booths, win prizes, participate in low-key agility trials, and more!

Meet and Greet

Socializing is an important aspect for any dog.  Socialization consists of continually introducing your dog to new places, people, objects, and of course, other dogs.  Many dogs love to 'say hello' to any dog they meet.  Other dogs can be more shy. There are a few pooches who are dog aggressive and prefer that no other canine comes within 5 feet of their personal space.  Because of this variance in dog personality, it's important to follow a few simple rules when you and your dog are meeting another dog and his or her handler.

Meet and Greet Guidelines:
1.  Always ask FIRST before you let you dog within a few feet of another dog's space if you dog can say hello.

2.a.  Be prepared for a 'no.'  A lot of people ask, and then before waiting for an answer, they simply let their dogs pull them over .  Kind of defeats the purpose of asking, doesn't it? (I try to avoid blog ranting-but if I didn't, here would be a perfect place for me complain away.)
  b.  Likewise, if you are the one being asked, feel free to say, "Not right now, Fluffy is learning to behave and needs to calm down," or (this is my line), "Cheri is actually a service dog in training and is working right now."  I always recommend giving a brief explanation so that people understand you are just being a jerk.

3.  If the other owner does say yes, make the visit short and sweet, three to five seconds.  Any longer than this and you'll have two different scenarios.  Scenario A:  The dogs decide they are now friends and pretty soon they are jumping all over each other, the leashes are tangled, and you've got a wild, furry mess on your hands.  Next time they see a dog-what are they going to do since the last time was so rewarding?  Scenario B: One or both dogs will decide to get snarly-this can quickly escalate into a bad situation.

4.  Keep your dog nearby, sniffing only the other dog's front half.  There is no need for your dogs to smell each other's nether regions while on leash.  Believe me when I say that this is a socially reinforced trait and isn't necessary.   Out of the five service dogs I've raised so far, NONE of them have ever had the inclination to smell another dogs private areas unless the other dog did it first and shoved their own tail end in my dog's face.

5.  If you are still talking to the other handler, have your dog come back to your side and encourage them to sit or do a down.  This a great time to teach them self control and that you are more important than that other dog/human.

Being social with other dogs is great-just make sure that you are polite and consider other dogs and humans before you give into your dog's inappropriate behavior.

Universal Studio's Animal Actors-Agility Style

Many of you know that I was playing in California last week.  One day we went to Universal Studios and of course I had to go see the "Animal Actors" show.  Halfway through, they brought out agility equipment, so I frantically fumbled around and pulled out my camera just in time to catch this segment.  Enjoy this clip and feel free to post comments, especially about Competitor #2 (just keep in mind the name of the show...).

A Few Laughs for Today

comic courtesy of gocomics.com

Clean Run

Here's a great website for agility products: www.cleanrun.com
Check it out and post your feedback!

How I Trained My Human to Come When I Ring a Bell by Maria Hansen

I am an apartment dweller without the luxury of a dog door.  My dog Katie has always been pretty good about “asking” to go out, but we’ve had our fair share of accidents.  At first Katie would either whine, or bark, or paw at the door to ask to go out, but since consistency is such a big part of agility, or any dog training for that matter, we wanted to find a better way.  In reading up on potty cues, I found that there are basically two methods out there that will successfully teach your dog to ring a bell to go out.   We started preparing by purchasing a small bell that I could hang from my doorknob, and yummy treats that are kept near the door.

If your dog already paws to go outside you can teach him or her to ring a bell by ringing it yourself every time you open the door.  You can start pointing to the bell when your dog paws, or do this with a treat in order to lure their nose to the bell.  Give lots of praise/ positive markers and allow the dog to go outside.  Soon they will associate the bell with going outside and you will have less scratch marks in your door paint. 

The targeting approach is accomplished by teaching your pup to “touch” something, either with their paw or snout.  Katie learned this by touching my hand with her paw when given the command “touch.”  If she did this, she received a treat and quickly learned what “touch” meant.  Next we learned to “touch” the bell.  First I held the bell in my hand and had her touch it on command, then, we moved it to the doorknob. I began giving her a treat when she touched the bell as well as opening the door and saying “potty.”  From there she then learned that she could touch the bell to go outside, potty, and then get a treat immediately when she came back in.  Letting your dog out is really a life reward, so they won’t need to be treated after they connect ringing the bell to having the door opened.  I have a window by my door so I always keep an eye on her to make sure she does go potty.  No potty, no treat.  Several days of consistent practice later, and my dog has trained me to come to her at the ring of a bell to let her out.  I’m not really sure if this “trick” is actually being performed by the canine or the human, but there are no more accidents in the house.

Flying Rabbits

Seems like all sorts of animals these days are doing the agility scene.  Although these rabbits only jump, it's still pretty impressive!

Check out the article here: Now That's a Bunny Hop

Read the article:  Do you agree or disagree
that this could be considered inhumane?

Think Positive

I've decided over the years, through numerous experiences (both good and bad) that dog training is as much mental on the part of the handler as it is anything else.  So, in order for me to be the trainer I feel I should be, I've developed a little mantra that I will say to myself:

I am calm, confident, and in control.  I am quick to correct and quick to forgive.  I will help (dog's name) learn to (desired behavior) by teaching her/him the correct behavior of (blank) through ongoing practice.

Obviously, fill in your own dog's name and the desired activity-the more specific the better.  Also, it's always best to avoid "not" "stop" "don't" and all of those negative words.  If you want your dog to stop jumping, you may say something like: "I will help Freddy to learn to remain on all four paws when visitors come over by teaching him the correct behavior of sitting while being greeted through ongoing practice."  The last part is especially important because it helps me to remember that dogs learn the correct behaviors because we teach them through practice and over time.

I like to use the first two sentences when I'm simply frustrated-it helps me to relax and rededicate myself to what I am doing.  Feel free to create your own mantra-whatever helps you to be good to your dog, and always remember that most ideas start inside our head, come out in our actions, and eventually affect our lives.

Canine Companions for Independence

Love dogs, golfing, and helping out a great cause?  Check out this upcoming golf tournament for Canine Companions for Independence-a non-profit organization that trains service dogs for people with disabilities.  This is the organization that Cheri is with, so obviously it's one of the best around!

To sign up for the golf tournament, visit CCI Golf.  Visit these sites  CCI  and Wasatch Champions to find out more about CCI in general and the local CCI chapter.

Zoomdog Gourmet

Introducing Zoomdog Gourmet!  This is the homemade line of dog treats and cupcakes that our agility club is selling to raise funds for things like new equipment.  This weekend we'll be at the Gardner's Market here in Logan.  Homemade dog treats are great because they have no added colors, preservatives, or other items your dog doesn't need.  Plus, they're fresh and smell great-Cheri absolutely loves the mini cupcakes.  Sometimes she will lick the frosting off first, then chew the rest, getting crumbs everywhere; other times, she just eats them in one big gulp!

Over the next few months, we'll be selling many tasty varieties, but here is what will be available this Saturday:

• Peanut Butter Carob Rings
• Carrot Cupcakes with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting
• Banana Cupcakes with Blueberry Cream Cheese Frosting
• The Dog's Revenge (BBQ mini-men)
• Peanut Butter Buttons
• Pooch Pretzels
• Cheesy Chicken Chews

The Tiny Chihuahua Who Thinks He's a Buddhist Monk

By LIZ HAZELTON

Last updated at 12:50 24 March 2008

He is admired for his impeccable zen and ability to radiate a sense of inner peace.

And while other Buddhists may have to wait years to reach enlightenment, this devotee seems to have attained Nirvana in just two.

Unfortunately, appearances can be deceptive, especially when the "monk" in question is a Chihuahua named Conan.

The tiny dog actually launches into "prayer" when he wants treats - and is richly rewarded by impressed visitors.

Zen-like: Practice makes perfect for Conan whose prayers are answered (usually very quickly) with treats

Conan, a two-year-old male with black hair and soulful eyes, begins his routine by standing beside a priest before the altar and staring intently at a statue of a Buddhist deity.

When the priest begins to chant and raises his clasped hands, the little dog also lifts his paws and joins them at the tip of his nose

He is now the top attraction at his Japanese temple.

"He started to pose in prayer like us whenever he wanted treats," said priest Joei Yoshikuni.

"Clasping hands is a basic action of Buddhist prayer to show appreciation. He may be showing his thanks for treats and walks."

"It's so funny that he does it," said Kazuko Oshiro, 71, who has been going to Jigenin temple on the southern island of Okinawa for more than 25 years.

It's a dog's life: Conan's prayer pose is perfect

"He gets angry when somebody else sits on his favourite spot. He must be thinking that it's his special place."

Conan may not be as devout as first appearances indicate but he does seem to have brought his temple home good luck.

Visitor numbers have swelled by 30 per cent since his arrival and he a particular attraction for younger people.

"I'm glad that people feel more comfortable visiting the temple because of Conan," Yoshikuni added.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-543470/The-tiny-Chihuahua-thinks-hes-Buddhist-monk.html#ixzz1RoTDOC00

Proofing

Proofing is essentially teaching dogs to perform their commands with distractions present.

Why is proofing so important?  Many dogs know how to sit, stay, down, come, and do all those basic obedience skills; but so often I hear, "Sparky is great at home, but when I take him to _____________, he just doesn't seem to listen!"  While there may be other factors contributing to Sparky's lack of focus, one major component is that Sparky and his handler haven't practiced enough in distracting environments and have spent very little time proofing the commands. It is especially vital that agility dogs are proofed on their commands and the obstacles since agility typically entails numerous tempting distractions (dogs, toys, grass, open sky, leaves, birds, awesome tunnels...you get my meaning).

Here's a great video of a dog/handler team working on their stand (for conformation) with another dog distraction.  Does the overly happy Black Lab remind you of anyone?

I like to think of proofing always with the end result in mind: your dog obeying his or her commands regardless of what's going on around him or her, kind of like this Dane. This dog does great, but just realize the Dane (and the Lab) has had a ton of work put into him before he got to this level!  This stellar behavior is always your ultimate goal, but remember that you will need to take baby steps to get there.  So, to start you off, here are some ways you can start proofing your dog's stays.

(Please note that in order to create an environment of success, proofing comes after your dog already knows the command and is proficient at it 85% percent of the time with minimal distractions.)

10 Ways to Proof Your Dog's Stay
1.  Name (it's not their 'release'!)
2.  Walking around
3.  Different body postures
4.  Toys
5.  Dogs
6.  Children
7.  Pet stores
8.  Dancing
9.  Fake commands
10. Food

Jesse

If I could only get my husband to clean up that much enthusiasm!

Fireworks and Fidos

Humans love fireworks-we love the thrill, the colors, the boom that shakes our bones.  However, I've never met a dog that looks up into the sky and says, "Jeez, that is SO AWESOME!"  At best, you're going to get a dog that is oblivious.  At worst, your dog will be cowering under the corner of your bed, traumatized  So, this Fourth of July, let your dog stay home, away from blinding, smelly, ear-drum bursting fireworks and let him chew a fabulously stuffed Kong and stay in his nice cozy crate instead.

Oh, and just for fun, I had to throw in these pictures as well!

(Caution: Do not attempt this at home!)

Picking up all channels

This isn't Cheri-but he sure is cute!